This time, we visited a small establishment in Mizuo called Yamajuu.

In Mizuo, there are several places like this—inns and dining spots scattered throughout the village.
None of them are flashy. What they share instead is a quiet, sincere way of welcoming their guests.
That atmosphere, more than anything else, feels like the true charm of Mizuo.

When we arrived at our reserved time, the first thing we were guided to was a yuzu bath.
There were no other guests.
It was completely our own time.

Before we realized it, the women in our group had been soaking for nearly an hour.
No one hurried us along.
Just resting in the warm water, gazing at the scenery outside the window.
Such a simple act, yet the body slowly and noticeably began to relax.

After the bath came the meal: chicken sukiyaki (or chicken hot pot, chosen at the time of reservation).
That small flexibility is something we appreciated

All of the cooking was handled by the staff.
The seasoning was Kansai-style, as one would expect in Kyoto.
There was no elaborate presentation—just clear flavors, where the character of the ingredients and the broth stood out.

As we ate, looking out at the landscape,
the experience somehow reminded me of the Adachi Museum of Art.
Not because the scenery was perfectly curated—
but because the slightly unpolished nature felt more comforting, more honest.

Dessert was a yuzu jelly.
Utterly simple.

Even my wife, who rarely eats desserts,
quietly said, “I like this.”

Is Mizuo’s native yuzu really that different?
Honestly, it feels faster to experience it once than to explain it with words.

We stayed for three and a half hours.
Not once did we feel the need to check the time.

On the way back, we stopped by Hozukyo Torokko Station, hoping to wave at the sightseeing train as it passed.
Even after the scheduled time, no train came.
A quick check on our phones revealed the reason—it was a non-operating day.

Including that small anticlimax,
it felt like one of those days where even things not going as planned somehow felt just right.